Uman is a city halfway from Kiev to Odessa.
Here such Sprinters, with a great frequency go to Uman from Kiev, from the central railway station Kiev-Pass and still it seems from autostation station “Southern”, that about an exhibition. The fare is 65 UAH, the distance is exactly 200 kilometers. The first minibus departs from Kiev at 7 am, the last from Uman like at 20-00. Time on the road is about 3 hours, if you do not get into a traffic jam in Kiev.
Minuses minibuses are the following: The driver almost never stops, but drives like a madman. This circumstance makes it very problematic to use liquid before the road, about beer and no speech. Sometimes it can make one stop somewhere beyond the White Church, but only if someone specifically asks, and people often hesitate to do it. In the cabin it is quite crowded, it is simply impossible to get up. In Sprinter, and they are used in Ukraine massively on intercity routes, it is impossible to go with a lot of luggage. But as railway transport in Ukraine is slowly degrading, it seems that in the future we will only move in this way.
By the way, it’s almost impossible to get to Uman by rail, and there was once a passenger train Kiev-Uman, which was going by a roundabout way, through Kazatin.
Yes, there is still a mass of large buses from the central bus station, including passing ones. But they go strictly on schedule, which must be learned in advance. Here they are just making stops in all large settlements, but they also go to Uman before 5 o’clock.
The motorway E-95 St. Petersburg – Kiev – Odessa is in a mediocre condition. In many places it’s just bad, like in the photo above, sometimes better, but I never saw it as ideal as the Kiev-Zhitomir road. Site Kiev – White Church, this is the first 90 km from Kiev, quite heavily loaded, and the area around densely populated.
Behind the White Church, which runs around the track, the road gets a little better, and there are fewer vehicles. Also noticeable is the decrease in population density, with distance from Kiev. The farther to the south, the less populated areas.
In the south of the Kiev region, the Dnieper Upland begins and the road often makes such very beautiful zigzags.
The border with the Cherkassy region. From Kiev 140 kilometers.
The road Kiev – Odessa, passes through the most remote from Kiev areas of the Kiev region, Volodarsky and Stavishchensky.
Finally arrived in Uman. The clock is 10-55. The bus station is on the northern outskirts of the city.
Uman is a significant road junction, two important roads intersect here, E95 SPb – Kiev – Odessa and E50 Dnepropetrovsk – Kirovograd – Vinnitsa – Stryi. There is also a road of regional importance to Zvenigorodka, Smelu and Cherkassy.
Immediately next to it is located one of the entrances to the arboretum “Sofiyivka”, where we headed.
About the dendropark itself, see the previous post. On the city, after visiting the park and before dark, I had only a couple of hours.
Uman is a very interesting city. There is a hilly terrain and a huge number of old houses that have survived since the 19th century. And these houses, not overhauled and repaired many times, but mostly preserved in its original form. I saw only a few carefully renovated buildings built in that era.
There are also houses built in the times of the USSR and a huge private sector. Most of the streets, on the slopes of numerous hills, built up by private houses, look something like this. Broken asphalt and an unpleasant smell from countless lowlands, where streams and rivulets usually flow. In the same typical Uman lowland, the Kamenka River enters, after it emerges from the luxurious park “Sofiyivka”.
In any case, there is something to see in Uman and besides the park “Sofiyivka”.
Old houses on the street Radyanskaya (Soviet).
Uman literally penetrated the trading spirit. All these characteristic old houses, reminiscent of Kiev Podol and the ubiquitous petty trade. Back in the 19th century the city was predominantly Polish-Jewish. And in the present Ukrainian city, Uman became only under communist rule.
In times of Polish domination, the Ukrainian Orthodox population, as elsewhere on the Right Bank, lived mainly in the villages. At that time peasant uprisings sometimes occurred, during which all these towns were burned, and the Poles and Jews were brutally exterminated.
The era of stability and sustainable development came only in the times of the Russian Empire, in the 19th century. The industry began to develop strongly, in 1890 a railway arrived in Uman, which at that time was a significant event in the economic life of the region.
In modern Ukraine Uman is known due to the park “Sofiyivka” and the annual invasions of the Hasidim of the pilgrims. And of course it is known for Umansky brewery brewing the best in Ukraine live “Zhigulevskoe” beer, which successfully won the beer market of Ukraine, due to its unique taste.
Search in Kiev and regional centers of Ukraine.
The Orthodox Cathedral of St. Nicholas, built in 1812, in honor of the expulsion from Russia of Napoleon.
Monument “to the vigilant guard of the revolution Litvinov, delivered by the collective of the local GPU”.
It is surprising that such monuments are still preserved in Ukraine. And the farther from Bandera Kiev, the more secure they are.
And a monument to the famous Grigory Ivanovich Kotovsky, which speaks of the proximity of the south of Ukraine, Bessarabia and Odessa, where this hero became famous.
Beautiful houses in the city center.
The house is in the center, on the corner of Sadovaya and Sovetskaya, one of the few that looks great. 100 years ago it had a city government.
And the house across the street from him. Judging by what is written on the map, it housed a commercial bank until 1917.
A notable house on the corner of Lenin Square and the streets of the October Revolution.
The club of railwaymen on the same square. The railway in Uman almost died, but there is still such a club.
Solid trade on Lenin Street. In Uman, indeed, all street names have not changed since the times of the USSR.
Cars on the Lenin Square. In the depths of the building is visible, where the local government is located.
Pushkin Street, which is the center of Jewish pilgrimage. In September of each year, several blocks overlap here, with the right of entry only for Hasidic Jews and residents with a local residence permit.
I happened to be on it, I was brought here by the address of the apartment, which I was going to rent for the night, while completely unaware that I would be in the very center of the very Jewish quarter of Uman, where their shrine is.
It was necessary to spend the night in Uman because I had planned the trip myself for two days so that the next day I could leave from neighboring Khristinovka in Kazatin, on a diesel train that goes to the remote places of Vinnytsia region. Riding the same route or mode of transport there and back – this is not for me. I need new impressions.
Otherwise, I would not be harmed, on the same day, I’ll be dumped in Kiev on an evening bus.
Further penetrating into Pushkin’s street, I got into a Jewish mini state with its laws and toponymy. From some place inscriptions in Ukrainian and Russian are almost gone, everywhere Hebrew dominated exclusively.
Even the usual yard signs for ads were in this language.
Here, thousands of Jewish pilgrims eat.
Local people say that in these houses most of the apartments have already been bought by Jews, and at inflated prices.
This is how this place looks in September.
See the report of the Moscow blogger Varlamov from 2010. http://zyalt.livejournal.com/296822.html.
Jews every year tens of thousands come to Uman and then cost a bed in these houses and the private sector, where local entrepreneurs have equipped mini-hotels and hostels, soars up to heaven. For one night, they say the cost of a bed can cost up to 200 dollars.
In a word, the Hasidim bring and leave in Uman a huge amount of money, the development of which has become an important branch of the local economy.
And here is the entrance to the Jewish shrine itself. Jews here plan to build the largest synagogue in the world.
Larek with kosher food. Nothing is clear, all in Hebrew, even the advertisement of the mobile operator “Life”.
Inside the sacred synagogue.
Here is the Jewish shrine itself. Honestly, I wasted my time here, dressed in the simplicity of a heartfelt skullcap, necessary to let in this room. In the Orthodox tradition, this is a great sin, for it is a ritual action. To all who are baptized in Orthodoxy or even more so as a church person, it is not recommended to go to this place. In my case, curiosity prevailed.
Having experienced quite a strong discomfort, I stayed in the room for only a few seconds, went outside.
The apartment was actually a mini hotel, equipped in a private house, which for most of the year is empty. So we had to spend the night two hundred meters from the main Jewish shrine, in the heart of the Jewish quarter. Search for another time shelter was no longer, and a low price attracted. The room was clean and made a good European-quality repair, there was a strong pressure of hot water, which for provincial Ukrainian towns is a rarity. The rent is 150 UAH per night. In the 3-room room there were 16 beds.
The same evening, on a minibus, I went to Uman station, located on the southern outskirts of the city, which was absolutely deserted.
Uman is a dead end station. Zhelezka came to these places in 1890, even before the appearance of most other railroads on the territory of the Russian Empire. But this railway in the aftermath did not become mainline, and in the early 21st century it turned out to be completely on the verge of total death.
View the other way. During the Soviet times, of course, the movement was much more lively, although it did not differ in its intensity.
The ancient station, which is an architectural monument. It seems that most of the building is not used.
The daily message, via a diesel train, exists only with the regional center of Cherkassy. All other trains run several times a week.
By the way, the regional center of Cherkassy is removed from Uman almost as well as the capital of the state of Kiev, and in view of the fact that Cherkassy is not an important road, the trip to Kiev for Umchans is more accessible in time. Cherkasy region has a very narrow silhouette stretched from the east to the west and at the same time, and Uman is located just in the west of the region, 180 kilometers (distance by road) from the regional center.
Here such Hungarian diesel trains D1 can occasionally be seen in these places. Cargo traffic seems to have died.
Empty waiting room. In the cash box I drank the tea-teller’s tea, which to my question: “when the direct train Uman-Kiev was canceled?”, She looked at me in astonishment, almost like an aliens. At the same time, I never got a clear answer to my question. Apparently, no one ever asks such questions, and in general, it never even occurred to anyone to try to go from Uman to anywhere by train.
Uman is a city halfway from Kiev to Odessa.